Being on budget in Phuket is tough.
There is so much to do here – so much you WANT to do. Touristy things – like riding an elephant or going to see what all the hype about Ko Phi Phi is about. There are snorkelling excursions and various other themed trips (including mass underwater weddings) to most of the breathtaking surrounding islands that I would kill to go to. There is the monthly and notorious full moon party on Ko Penang which I want to experience at least once while I’m traveling Thailand and many, many other fantastic, once in a lifetime opportunities. All of which cost an arm and a leg with the degree of extortion instilled to foreigners by the locals.
Unfortunately – my new found value and attitude toward money, will not budge for me to indulge in even a chillaxing massage at one of the millions of day spa’s around the island. And it’s not that I’m on the bones of my ass and only just scraping by with money – because I’m not. I have enough to ensure my mother can sleep soundly at night knowing her daughter is taking care of herself adequately. It’s that I won’t pay the ridiculous prices charged for said services after I found out what the locals pay for them. Us farangs are charged 1000BAHT a pop to go watch Muay Tai at Bangla Stadium on fight night. Thai’s only pay 100BAHT for their tickets.
Do you see where I’m coming from?
Nevertheless… Phuket on antiestablishment budget is just as enjoyable, if not more so. Especially when I have the time to explore and realise that most of the places on the tour itinerary for Phuket – with the exception of the elephant safari, so far, are actually free and that you’re mainly paying for a driver and a tour guide.
On budget, you’re pretty much compelled to look past the end of your nose and all the other tourist traps, which I have found to be a much more rewarding experience. There is so much more to a place than the forefront of a tourbus.
Even luckier is that I don’t have to spend a single dollar to come and hang out on one of the tranquil beaches on the island.
Like the one I’m at now.
Emerald beach.
It's easy to get used to seeing ths everyday
Emerald beach instantly became my favourite daytime hangout after my activity partner – Russell, decided to take a look see past the end of his nose, and found a beach neatly tucked away from the crowds and litter on Patong beach which is only about 2 miles away to the right. For starters – it doesn’t have the sand flea’s Patong Beach has – or the crowds – or the stench.
It’s idyllic flat watered, lapping shore is only the tip of the iceberg.
It’s the Lekky Bar and Mr Tong who make it worth the trip.
Lekky Bar (aptly named after the owner – Lekky) is a rustic beach bar which has been built from drift wood that washed up on the shore after the 2004 tsunami and has Bob Marley on their playlist on any given day.
Then there’s Mr Tong – who is an absolute monkey… in every sense of the word – literally.
He’s an 11 month old gibbon who’s home is a treehouse near the Beach Bar. I don’t think I’ve ever seen any creature with more personality and character than this little monkey. I can watch him for hours, with each minute filled with more amazement in his being than the one before.
Lekky keeps Mr Tong leashed onto an approximately 10 meter long rope. At first I was not happy about the collar around his neck and the leash, but then I realised that he is treated tremendously well and that you can’t well have a pet monkey without a leash – he’d probably be halfway to Bangkok after the first five minutes – and keeping him in a cage is cruel. So he’s on a leash.
At the moment Tong is busy eating a piece of fruit I gave him, but about two minutes ago he had all fours on my head trying to get my head band off. The fruit was my only hope in calming him down enough to stop making my hair his playground.
Spending some time playing with Mr Tong is a real treat.
LOL! An elderly guy just walked up to Mr Tong with a finger-full of strawberry jam. Monkey noticed him coming early and stood up with childlike excitement and curiosity on his face. If there were a thought bubble, it would read “WHAT’S THAT?!?!”
The little guy is licking the old guy’s finger with bright eye’s and enthusiasm akin to a child with an ice-cream. Very cute!
I can’t imagine jam is very good for a monkey with the amount of sugar in it. I think I might just be about to find out if monkey’s get sugar rushes…
As if this one could be anymore lively.
I could go on forever about the endless supreme quirks resonating from this mischievous, playful and completely lovable little rascal, but he’s not the main focus of my story – although I’m pretty sure he’s mid sugar rush right now – he’s jumping around and swinging between the rope and the bar’s roof with his eyes closed! WTF?!?!?! He’s pretty much creating havoc – jumping on people as they walk past – getting reactions mixed with fright and excite. I’m ACTUALLY Laughing Out Loud! He definitely inspires joy and enhances the Lekky bar/Emerald beach experience.
Small, rustic and laid back - Lekky Bar.
Other factors that come into play that will furthermore enhance your leisure time at Emerald Beach is the reasonably priced menu – with western and Thai food. My favourite so far is the tempura prawns with fries and a watermelon shake. And then a mango shake. Followed by another watermelon shake – or a pineapple and lime shake. That’s another thing I love about Thailand – their fruit shakes. Non dairy, pure fruit and ice chucked into a smoothy machine and served up in glasses the size of vases. All with orchids, fruit and several different size and colour straws as décor. They’re amazing. Pretty much ANYWHERE I’ve had a fruit shake in Phuket has been a really positive experience. I’ve even been considering going on a fruit shake diet for a week to see what the effects are.
Pack a bag and stay for the day.
The food you order from Lekky Bar gets made two bars over at ‘Beach Bar’ – which is also owned by Lekky and his family, and then driven over by friendly bar staff on their motorcycles. Yet another factor I appreciate is the absence of go go girls – which seem to be ubiquitous throughout Phuket. It really is a break from the craziness of other social hotspots. A sanctuary even.
Between Lekky Bar and Beach Bar, the powdery soft sand is lined with tall palm trees whose leaves hang over providing shade for those catching a nap on the sunchairs, and vendors renting kayaks, snorkels, goggles and clear perspex canoes. Visibility for snorkelling is great – it’s just that the tsunami tore most of the reef to pieces and now all that remains are a few fish species, live urchins (beware) and even a seahorse or two. It’s also pretty shallow so you’re snorkelling right on top of the reef rocks – which could be either good or bad. Good for close up encounters with marine life, bad for close up encounters with sea urchins.
You could opt to rent a jetski from Lekky’s nephew All, or head toward the Beach Bar and get a massage right on the beach. Rest assured though that the only happy ending you’ll be getting from these massages is waking up to the view of the glassy flat emerald water only a few paces from you.
Emerald beach and her pristine palm studded shoreline.
There’s nothing I love more than to come and spend the day here in the sun – or under the shade of the palm trees, enjoying multiple watermelon shakes, playing with Mr Tong and listening to ‘three little birds’ telling me that ‘every little thing’s gonna be alright’ in the background. My soul is smiling and free and has for the time being found her new happy place.
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Nicky Vermeulen